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CARLOS HERRERA NOS VISITO

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El Semanal 29 de enero de 2012Los guisantes de Llavaneras (en el Ibéric)

Quién no ha abierto una vaina de guisantes
, en llegando el mes de marzo, y se ha comido alguna perla verde, cruda, sabrosa? Si los guisantes se plantaban en octubre, más o menos, al llegar la primavera estaban en su apogeo, y casi era más gustoso comérselos antes de cocinar, cuando esperaban en una fuente a que una mano paciente y mimosa los desgranase uno a uno. Ahora hay guisantes, merced a los cultivos extratempranos y otras técnicas, fuera de la temporada habitual. Sin ir más lejos, hará un par de semanas me zampé unos primorosos en L’Isidre, en el paralelo barcelonés, casi mi casa, a la que no puedo dejar de ir si paso por Barcelona: Montserrat sabe qué hacer con ellos como sabe qué hacer con todo, sencillez como norma, excelencia en la calidad como impronta. Si los guisantes, por demás, son de Llavaneras (Sant Andreu de Llavaneres), el alboroto es absoluto. Entre Mataró y Arenys de Mar, en el Maresme, se consiguen estos guisantes algarroberos cultivados cerca de las playas, dulces como caramelos y tan acuosos que casi se cuecen con su propia agua. Una vez se prueban ya no se quieren otros: son tan deliciosos que, de hecho, no precisan grandes elaboraciones.

Por aquellos parajes ha pasado uno la adolescencia. A la altura de Caldetas –Caldes D’Estrac– se pueden escribir libros de las andanzas de los lugareños de mi quinta. Frente a lo que en su día era una disco que tuvo varios nombres pero que se la conoció siempre como Crack’s, oculto en un par de calles paralelas a la carretera Nacional II y en término de San Vicente de Montalt, mora un lugar en el que escasamente repararíamos si nos dejásemos llevar por la apariencia del nombre: Ibéric. Para tablas de jamón de cebo estoy yo, le dije al buen amigo que me abría la selva del desconocimiento. «Cállate la puta boca y entra», me repuso, cariñoso, Claudio, el susodicho. Unas siete u ocho mesas, una pequeña barra y una cocina de ocho metros cuadrados, si llega, era todo el escenario y, en la puerta, ¡un cajón repleto de guisantes en sus respectivas vainas! «¿Son de Llavaneras?», pregunté. «No, de Kuala Lumpur», se me contestó. Y amigo mío, dentro, la fiesta. (Pude saludar, por cierto, a Zaldúa, aquel finísimo delantero centro del Barça que tan buenas tardes nos había dado a los aficionados y que resulta ser consumidor habitual y reconocido del establecimiento).

Pero al grano. Al guisante. Gerardo –acompañado de su mujer, Olga, y de su hijo– cargan sobre sus hombros con el pulcro y agradable restaurante: él trabajaba en un bar de desayunos de Barcelona y un buen día dio el salto de todo emprendedor: pilló un local y se puso a desarrollar su prodigiosa mano en los fogones. Atención a esos guisantes que no tienen nada que envidiarle, por ejemplo, a los bienaventurados que preparan con esmero y acierto las vecinas hermanas Reixach en el famoso Hispania. En este caso, los hace con chipirones (más bien `puntillitas´) que limpia con dedicación y paciencia, pasa por la plancha y añade a unos guisantes mínimamente sofritos con cebolla para configurar algo sencillamente monumental. Le añade algo más, pero, si quiere, que se lo cuente él, y esa cosa le da un sabor ligeramente ahumado, caramelizado, que los hace impagables. Me entretuve con un mero negro del Cantábrico que me hizo querer tirarme al mar de cabeza y me comí medio plato del bacalao a la vizcaína que se estaba zampando tranquilamente mi amigo explorador. La salsa vizcaína, que en puridad no se hace con tomate, aunque mucha gente se lo eche tranquilamente, estaba elaborada como debe: con pimiento choricero. La auténtica y buena salsa vizcaína con la que iba acompañado aquel prodigioso bacalao no llevaba almendras, ni nata, ni `collonadas´ y, sinceramente, no he probado otra.

Total, que me levanté, saludé a este extremeño virtuoso y me marché reflexionando sobre lo insospechado que aguarda tras una puerta cualquiera. Y me eché al bolsillo un puñado de guisantes de Llavaneras para hacer más agradable el viaje de vuelta. Vaya maravilla de sitio.

Fin Central-Contenidos

197 comentarios para CARLOS HERRERA NOS VISITO:

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Merriman on martes, 27 de noviembre de 2018 9:14
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Holland on miércoles, 28 de noviembre de 2018 9:05
Every 60 minutes there are new public proxies added. You can directly import these into your SEO tools or do it manually. There are proxies for ScrapeBox and all other tools. Let me know if you need free public proxies for other tools. I’ll try to add them if I can.
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Kirkby on miércoles, 28 de noviembre de 2018 17:56
Right now it looks like Movable Type is the best blogging platform available right now. (from what I've read) Is that what you are using on your blog?
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Sandes on jueves, 29 de noviembre de 2018 0:52
This is the part of my site where I list all of the expired domains from sites that I scrape. I scrape the most popular sites on the internet to produce lists of expired domains. All the lists are free, and I try to update them as often as possible.
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Freund on viernes, 30 de noviembre de 2018 2:53
Great article! This is the kind of information that are meant to be shared across the web. Shame on Google for not positioning this put up higher! Come on over and visit my web site . Thank you =)
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Gale on viernes, 30 de noviembre de 2018 8:06
This piece of writing will help the internet visitors for creating new website or even a blog from start to end.
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Radcliffe on miércoles, 05 de diciembre de 2018 1:27
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Moritz on miércoles, 05 de diciembre de 2018 11:49
Hi there! Quick question that's completely off topic. Do you know how to make your site mobile friendly? My web site looks weird when browsing from my iphone. I'm trying to find a theme or plugin that might be able to fix this issue. If you have any recommendations, please share. Many thanks!
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Griffith on miércoles, 05 de diciembre de 2018 20:33
Whats up are using Wordpress for your site platform? I'm new to the blog world but I'm trying to get started and create my own. Do you require any coding knowledge to make your own blog? Any help would be really appreciated!
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Rosenberg on miércoles, 05 de diciembre de 2018 23:56
Thanks very nice blog!
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Bigelow on jueves, 06 de diciembre de 2018 4:29
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Chung Gon on martes, 11 de diciembre de 2018 17:52
Currently it looks like Expression Engine is the preferred blogging platform available right now. (from what I've read) Is that what you are using on your blog?
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