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L'Ibèric, una perla en Sant Vicenç de Montalt


Luis Buñuel filmó en
1932 Las Hurdes, tierra
sin pan, un crudo
documental sobre la
situación de atraso
en que permanecían las Hurdes.
En aquellos años se decía que
Las Hurdes empezaban donde
acababa la fantasía del sueño y
Miguel de Unamuno escribió “si
en todas partes del mundo el
hombre es hijo de la tierra en Las
Hurdes la tierra es hija de los
hombres”.
En aquellas Hurdes extremeñas,
cercanas a su frontera con Salamanca,
nació en 1963 Gerardo
Rodríguez Marín, y empezó allí
su vida laboral, antes de cumplir
los 14 años, trabajando en el campo
recogiendo algodón, maíz, pimentón
y cortando tabaco. Como
muchísimos otros extremeños,
decidió probar fortuna en Catalunya
dejando aquella maravillosa
tierra, por aquel entonces muy
pobrey con limitadísimas oportunidades.
Al llegaraCatalunya trabajó
en varios establecimientos
dedicados básicamente a lahostelería
y en todos ellos fue aprendiendo
el oficio.
Al residir en el Maresme y ser
una persona emprendedora, hace
tres años arrendó una pequeña
tasca en Sant Vicenç de Montalt,
para abrir un establecimiento
al que llamó L'Ibèric, en el
cual inicialmente preparaba bocadillos
bien hechos con buen jamón
y buen embutido y unmenú
a 14,50 euros. El éxito le llegó tan
rápidamente que suprimió los bocadillos
y el menú, y remodeló la
tasca para convertirla en un pequeño
restaurante, a la carta, con
capacidad para 30 personas, pero
con la dificultad –que culinariamente
no se percibe– de tener
una cocina cuya superficie no llega
a los 10 m2.
Nuestros lectores gastronómicamente
viajados, que hayan tenido
la oportunidad de visitar los
fogones de muchos reputados
restaurantes, habrán podido comprobar
la importante superficie
que ocupan sus cocinasydepartamentos
anexos. En L'Ibèric, Gerardo
Rodríguez demuestraadiario
a sus incondicionales clientes
que en una exigua superficie pueden
elaborarse auténticas delicias
para paladares exigentes.
A Gerardo le ocurre, al igual
que a muchos cocineros autodidactas,
que ha ido aprendiendo
el oficio picoteando de cocina en
cocina o de amigo en amigo. Por
ejemplo, uno de sus platos mas interesantes
son unas almejas en
salsa verde y alcachofas, y al preguntarle
dónde había obtenido la
receta, nos contó que se la había
facilitado un primo suyo de San
Sebastián, y cuando le preguntamos
por el origen de sus recetas
del bacalao al pil pil o a la vizcaína
–sin tomate– nos remitió a
unos amigos suyos bilbaínos.
5 a Taula tomó como pica-pica-
entrante un tomate raf con bonito
y anchoas, unos berberechos
de la ría a la plancha, unas gambas
de la costa de Arenys y unas
anchoas del Cantábrico, además
de una extraordinaria ensalada tibia
de gambas con vinagre de Módena.
Otros platos sugerentes
son el jamón ibérico, los chanquetes
a la andaluza, las navajas mini
y los langostinos de Sant Carles
de la Rápita, las cigalas de tronco
de la costa, que diariamente le suministra
un pescador de Barcelona,
y –según Gerardo– “los mejores
percebes que se pueden degustar
en el Maresme”.
Para los segundos platos es casi
obligatorio ceñirse a los pescados,
mariscos o paellas ya que su
carta sólo menciona como carnes
el solomillo de buey a la plancha
o con foie, o bien el foie fresco a
la plancha o con reducción de Pedro
Ximénez. Entre los pescados
ymariscos encontramos unas extraordinarias
espardenyes, de dura
textura, provenientes del Port
de la Selva, un sensacional changurro,
un bogavante vivo a la
plancha, y un rape, lenguado, rodaballo
o lubina salvaje a la donostiarra
o bien a la plancha. En
el apartado de paellas o fideuás
deben tenerse en cuenta las de
marisco o las de bogavante, así como
el sensacional arroz caldoso
con bogavante del país.
Quizás sus asignaturas pendientes
sean los postres y la carta
de vinos, pero probablemente las
dimensiones del local sean un impedimento.
Entre los postres caseros
destacan el puding y la tarta
tatin, y de los no caseros, un
surtido de helados. En su carta
de vinos encontramos, algún albariño,
solo un Rioja, siete Riberas
del Duero, y ninguno de Catalunya.
Gerardo ha demostrado lo que
se puede llevar a cabo con esfuerzo,
entrega y tenacidad. Ha logrado
en menos de tres años ofreciendo
máxima calidad y con un
genero al punto, sin florituras y
con la importante ayuda de su esposa
Olga Muñoz en la sala y de
su hijo Oscar, que L'Ibèric, a pesar
de sus limitadísimas dimensiones,
empiece a ser una referencia
en esta selecta zona del Maresme.

95 comentarios para L'Ibèric, una perla en Sant Vicenç de Montalt:

Comentarios RSS
Xavi on miércoles, 18 de julio de 2012 19:55
Doy fe. Excelente relación calidad/precio unido a un trato cercano y genuino. Es un gran restaurante donde la calidad de sus productos es difícil superar.
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www.replicasderelojes.co on miércoles, 22 de mayo de 2013 10:31
En aquellas Hurdes extremeñas, cercanas a su frontera con Salamanca, nació en 1963 Gerardo Rodríguez Marín, y empezó allí
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relojes especiales on lunes, 10 de febrero de 2014 3:46
La auténtica y buena salsa vizcaína con la que iba acompañado aquel prodigioso bacalao no llevaba almendras, ni nata, ni `collonadas´ y, sinceramente, no he probado otra.
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